Sunday, April 20, 2008

First trip to Dumbarton 08

Headed to Dumby last night for the first time since last may or something ridiculous. Went in high spirits and had my eye on numerous 6a's, needless to say this motivation didn't last long when I got spat off everything I tried, or looked at how high some of the problems were.


All the same though it was quite a good session, and I definitely noticed the difference in my strength between last year and this year. We spent a while playing on Slap Happy (6c), which one day probably will go. It is a bit of a one move wonder but when you get your hand on the hold and pull you are never quite sure what is going to happen. This happened to Dave:


Thom on Slap Happy

After this we went and had a go on Toto, a much more amenable slightly obscure problem. It involves a toe jam into a very slippery crack then you pull up into a sort of layback position get your foot behind the toe jam, swap hands in the layback go for a crimp do some fancy footwork and get a jug. So far I have got to attempting the hand swap, and it is awkward, although I reckon with a couple of sessions will go. Dave was the only one to succeed and subsequently started trying the sit start which he came desperately close to getting but had to give in due to a well and truly fucked finger.

Didn't really do much else, tried the 6a traverse on the warm up boulder. Again was getting a lot further than last year so hopefully that will get sent soon. Although I didn't get up anything I feel the only way to enjoy Dumbarton is to keep going and working shit, so I am going to make the effort to get back and enjoy it.

Thom cutting loose on a problem next to slap happy

Dave on Toto Sit Start



Ben Lister working Requiem

J

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